Yamaha Blaster Liquid Cooled Head installation instructions

1.     Head installation

Make sure the machine is free or as clean as it can be from dirt. Pressure wash is recommended, a couple grains of sand will ruin your cylinder bore.

Remove gas tank, head pipe.

I recommend removing the cylinder head bolts opposite as the torque sequence about a half turn at a time until they are loose. This applies more to multi cylinder engines but why risk warping a good head.

Clean the cylinder jug gasket surface.  You are now ready to install the liquid cooled head.

Insert the two O-rings into the head itself first and then insert the dome into the head. The head can only be installed in one direction. The port pointing straight should be at 1 O-clock. The head can now be installed just like the factory head.

Torque the head to factory specs and install the top cover to the head. Install the head pipe and gas tank.

Water pump installation

1.     Mounting

Loosen the 2 lower rear A-arm bolts enough to slide the slotted angle bracket into place. Retighten bolts

2.     Wiring

Remove the front cowl plastic. You will need to locate the 4 wire plug harness that goes to the head light switch on the handle bar. There should be a yellow-red wire. Verify that this voltage is between 7-12 volts. This is where you need to splice in the orange wire (Fused Wire) for the waterpump circuit. Soldering this connection is best but can use the supplied splice kit. Just wrap it with electrical tape to keep out moisture. The black wire will need to be grounded to the chassis. You will need to use wire ties to keep the wire away from any exhaust or moving components.

Radiator Installation

Much like the installation of the water pump, you need to loosen the lower front A-arm bolts to slide the lower slotted angle bracket into place. Some aftermarket bumpers may need some engineering for brackets, but most should be ok.

Plumbing

The port on the liquid cooled head located on the top will get plumbed to the top port on the radiator just under the upper A-arm. The port that is located on the lower part of the degassing bottle on the side of the radiator will get hooked up to the water pump end port that is pointing toward the side of the machine. The port that is pointing up on the waterpump will get hooked up to the front port of the head. There is a ¼ line that will get plumbed from the top portion degassing bottle to the handle bar area and pointed down word. This is just a breather line.

Initial Startup

Slowly fill the radiator with a mixture of water and ethylene glycol of at least 20%. This will help reduce corrosion and lubricates the seal for the waterpump. The coolant will slowly make its way down into the water pump. The system will not be full of coolant but the degassing bottle will probably be full. Leave the cap off and start the machine and let it idle. You will need to add coolant as soon as it starts. You should begin to notice flow in the radiator neck. If you dont notice any flow, there may be an air pocket inside the pump. If you Temporarily remove the top line on the liquid cooled head, this should take care of the problem. You will need to keep an eye on the coolant level for the first hour of operation because there still may be air trapped in the system. The radiator cannot be overfilled because it will puke out what it doesn’t need from the overflow tube.